(Source: dont-do-womens-just-raf-simons)
Posts tagged "Raf Simons"
Raf Simons Redux
Autumn-Winter 2001-2002. Andreas. Photographed by WIlly Vanderperre. Make-up: Peter Philips. Paris, 2001.
Raf Simons’ father, unlike my own, was a professional soldier. While my father would covertly find ways to sleep late and embarrass his commanding officers in front of visiting diginitaries, Raf’s father thrived ina world of military order and ritual. My father was activated during the Berlin crisis of 1062. He was shipped from the Bronx to Virginia, where the only things familiar to him were iced tea and muscle cars. But a professional soldier, by comparison, can never affor such vague disorientation. Being a professional soldier means always knowing your place. You always know where you need to be, what you need to do.
Raf’s clothes are a rejection of all this. His clothes are not asked to do anything they do not want to do. They can be big or small - tightly fitting or loosely fitting - depending on the emotion they are supposed to suggest, as the figure waring them moves across a room, free to improvise.
Raf’s clothes are a rejection of all this. His clothes are not asked to do anything they do not want to do. They can be big or small - tightly fitting or loosely fitting - depending on the emotion they are supposed to suggest, as the figure waring them moves across a room, free to improvise.
Collier Schorr
raf simon, disorder-incubation-isolation collection autumn/winter 1999/2000
The collection was shown in a Filmstudio “Studio Carrère” on the Avenue du Président Wilson no. 50 in Paris close to Porte de la Chapelle on Friday 29th January 1999 at 09h30 pm.
A little group of teenagers opened the show, with black flags featuring the following words:
DISORDER INCUBATION ISOLATION
These words are important to describe the image of the collection, and are also a memorial to Joy Division.
The global idea of this collection is to make a reference to the past, specially the first two parts of the show. Fashion goes so quick that people tend to forget the historical meaning of clothes, especially costumes. This is why the opening of the show was like a procession to create the right atmosphere.
The most important part was a group of models wearing black Capes, classical, asymmetric and circle shapes in ¾ length, a variety of design, an other group wearing ceremonial costumes, shirts with cuffs and collar that are removable. The hair was very constructed in sharp lines. The first three groups had black coloured hair. And in the last part the hair changed to blond coloured hair, but still very constructed hairstyles.
The colour of the outfit changed from black to grey. Raf Simons likes plain, black and monotone, but also he likes the past in contrast to the future. The music was in this part very fast.
The blond group was wearing long light grey and dark grey coats with zippers. The silhouettes are very clean: shirts in classical weaving wool fabrics without collars. Nearly each light grey outfit was with a white “R” Turtleneck and the dark grey outfits with a red “R” Turtleneck.
The music of the show:
1 Placebo - ION
2 Suede - INTRODUCINE THE BAND
3 Ultravox - VIENNA
4 The art of noise - INSTRUMENTS OF DARKNESS
5 The art of noise – PARANOIMIA
Jumper in Wool, Mohair, and Leather, Raf Simons, Fall–Winter 1998–1999
UNRAVEL. Knitwear in Fashion
